20031020When Zinovy Zinik was a young communist Pioneer growing up in Moscow in the 1950s, he dreamt of being selected to go to Artek, the most famous and prestigious of all the Pioneer camps of the Soviet Union. Artek, on the Crimean shore of the Black Sea, was a showcase paradise for children with swimming, abundant food, good health, singing and the chance to meet foreign youngsters. Fifty years on, Zinovy Zinik travels to the camp to see how it has survived the collapse of Communism, to look for ghosts beneath its statue of Lenin, the tallest anywhere in the world, and to share memories of the place with some of those, British and Russian, who were there in its hey day.